Friday, August 10, 2012

Homer - Bear Viewing Tour Up Close And Personal!

After Seward we decided to go further south and we picked Homer as our next destination. It was only a few hours drive and apart from one stretch of road where we needed to follow a pilot car through the roadworks, it was an easy drive. We even spotted someone's agility setup in their front yard :)



Once we arrived in Homer we went for a quick shop, picked our campground for the time here (3 nights) called A Fisherman's Resort, and after hooking up the RV we went for a walk. Well firstly we went to see about a bear viewing tour we had picked and their office is only around the corner (literally). But they were fully booked. So we went on a walk down to the end of what's called the Homer Spit, basically a natural pier that's around 4miles long into the ocean. At the end there are restaurants, tour offices, fishing charter offices etc.

There is also a campground on there, and you can see some people take their camping seriously. Full on truck with oversized trailer thank you very much.


Some leftover boat




A slightly different RV, this one looks home made, complete with furnace.

Someone with enough time on their hands had fortified their tent on the beach.

Fishing is the main tourist and local business here, and on the spit there are tables outside the charter offices where they fillet the fish for those who went out on a trip. This guy could fillet a halibut in about a minute flat. The main fish caught here are halibut and salmon.

These fish were massive, about a meter long.

Another husband waiting bench in front of a souvenir shop.


One of the offices here belonged to the Alaska Bear Adventure company. In the window they had a sign that said there were spaces for the friday afternoon tour, so we went in and enquired about it. We could go on standby and if there were people booked on it with enough room for us, it would only cost us $399 instead of $650 per person. Yes it's not cheap and all bear tours are roughly the same price. So after checking them out online and making sure they were good ( they are number 1 on tripadvisor) as decided to ring them friday morning and put ourselves on the standby list.

So at 9am we were on standby and we rang again at noon to find out about the weather and if we could go as standby or whether we had to buy full price tickets. Turns out that a group of 9 had booked in, so two planes were already full. So we decided to bite the bullet and make ourselves full paying passengers with a guaranteed spot.

We were debating on whether or not we should spend this amount of money as we had already seen bears in Denali. In the end we decided to go for it. We're here, this is the best place to do this kind of tour and we're not gonna come back anytime soon.

So we drove to the small airport where we were given special long gumboots and given the safety talk about flying. Each pilot is also your tour guide, except in this case because there was a group of 9, only two tourguides were needed and our pilot Mike had the time off after flying us to the viewing spot.
Mike

We were in a group of 5 people with Jared as our guide. Before we set off on foot to go to the bears he told us a few of the "dos and don'ts" when it comes to bear encounters. The bears here are quite special in that they have never had bad experiences with humans and have also not been fed by humans. So they don't see humans as food providers or shy away from them. Which means they can get incredibly close to you without being bothered by your presence. When I say they can get close to you it means just that: humans are allowed to approach the bears in certain viewing areas in the wild, up to a certain distance. But if you sit down in a viewing area and the bear comes towards you, you don't have to move. In fact you shouldn't move, and running away is one of the worst things you can do. They can outrun you easily and running away will trigger their instinct to chase.

So the best things to do is kneel down (submissive posture) and don't move. If they get too close for your comfort, you can slowly stand up (this is a warning posture) and they will take the hint and move away. We got to see this in person!

The bear below walked towards us, checking us out and was about 5m away, when Jared stood up. And the bear paused and then moved past us.


This is him moving past us. I couldn't even get his entire body in the frame, he was that close. Interestingly neither Simone or myself felt in any way nervous or in danger. He was just casually strolling past us and checked our group out, there was no hint of aggression.


We called this one Einstein, he still has his winter hair around his face and neck :)

He strolled past us about 10m away.


We saw several mums with their cubs too, this one had three cubs following her around. They are spring cubs, meaning they were born in February this year and have grown from fist size to their current size since then. At a very young age they start eating what mum eats, in addition to mum's milk. They do that for a couple of years until they get told to move on.

Video:




 This big boy crossed the river towards us. Check out his paw!



There were also birds in that area.

And jellyfish.

Our plane.




Shots from our return trip past some glaciers are below. What an incredible day and we were glad that we did the tour and got such an amazing experience. Yes we could probably have gone to that Brooks River waterfall where the bears catch salmon - but you're there with 500 (literally) other people on a viewing platform and it's all very touristy and zoo-like. This way we were a group of 5 plus own personal guide and we got to see adult bears and cubs, seeing them fishing, clamming and foraging and experiencing these majestic animals close up.

Video from the return flight:







Wednesday, August 8, 2012

Kenai Fjords - Captain's Choice Tour


Today's activity was one that I had long waited for, a cruise in the Alaskan waters catering to wildlife photography. They call it the Captain's Choice tour, as the captain (on request of the passengers) decides the route on the day and there is a lot of flexibility in where you go and how long you stay.
They also have a maximum of 18 people on the boat, so you're not stuck with 100 other people on a big cruise ship. Our ship was called the Misty, and our captain was Sherry and the deckhand was Jacob.

After the initial safety briefing and asking us what we would most like to see on this cruise, we took off from Seward harbour.





After a short drive we saw a humpback whale, my very first whale watching experience! And it was great, I got some good shots of the tail just as we were about to move on.







One of the Puffins in flight. These guys can't really fly very well, they start a bit like albatrosses by running a lot on the water and flapping their wings like crazy. Or if they start off from a cliff, they actually fall a considerable distance before their wings kick in. They are very cute and they can also dive underwater for quite a long time. Here is one in flight.

We also came across a pod of orcas! According to our captain there was a new baby (2012 edition) amongst them. They can be identified by their dorsal fin and the pod has a leader who decides when to dive, where to go etc.







We also saw sea lions, drying and sleeping in the sun.





These guys were posing nicely for us.

The steam coming off them as they are still wet from the water. Despite the sun, the temperature on the water was about 10C.








As I mentioned before, these Puffins are not the most elegant of birds :)


Whilst we were going full speed ahead, a pod of Dall Porpoises joined us and swam alongside, darting from side to side in front of the boat. Video below thanks to Simone!





One of them splashed out of the water just in front of me, and all I captured was the splash.Looks pretty though!









Some sea otters we saw fishing and eating. They were quite far away though.

Aialik Glacier.We spent some time here, just listening to the sound of the ice rumbling and thundering as it breaks off into the ocean. It definitely shows you that it's moving, a flow of compacted snow down the mountain. This glacier grows by about 3-5 feet every day.

Video:




The water is only just above freezing, so there is still ice floating around.

A bigger cruiseship as a size comparison. That ship was about 1.5miles away from the glacier.







The next photos show a huge chunk of ice breaking off. We were about a mile away (due to safety), so it may look small but the chunk breaking off would be equivalent to a multistory building.
















Another orca on the way back, and we also saw another humpback whale.